Tag Archives: Linea

Guest Blog; Keira and Lucy on Linea

20/08/19-01/09/19

A few highlights from a fantastic two week holiday in Croatia…

After a flying visit to Dubrovnik with Keira, we travelled 4 hours by ferry on Wednesday to Milna on the island of Brač. Sarah and Ian were on the town quay awaiting our arrival and we walked to where Linea was moored. After a long catch up, a delicious homemade curry, and a few glasses of wine, we were ready for bed, and slept soundly for the first night on the boat.

Thursday, we set off to Smrka bay, which was beautiful, it even housed an old Military tunnel left over from the Former Yugoslavia, and an old house left in its ori​ginal state.

The house was complete with an outside shower and toilet, as well as a large open fire in the main room of the house, used for cooking a traditional supper for dinner guests who wish to enjoy a traditional Croatian meal.

Friday, we managed to sail the full 19 miles to Vis as we were lucky with the 5.6 knots of wind in our favour.

The incredible dolphin sightings out at sea- thanks Ian for always spotting them whilst we were deeply involved in our respective books

Saturday was by far the most interesting day as we set off from Vis town by Land Rover to visit three different military bases. Equipped with helmets and headlamps, the tour started in the underground tunnels. We explored the labyrinth of tunnels and bunkers, saw the remains of cannons and abandoned warehouses.

The views from the top were incredible! The tour guide pointed out Tito’s cave and informed us that the leader used this as a Partisan hideout from the invading Nazi forces during the Second World War. We were left fascinated by a tour so rich in culture and history that afterwards, we spent some time discussing it with our guide over a well-earned beer.

The view from the top

Sunday, we sailed 30 miles to Korčula.

I think now it is the right time to mention that England thrashed Australia in the Ashes. Despite mine and Keira’s disinterest in the cricket, I know that S+I will be thrilled that I mention this here, it did create a buzzy atmosphere on the boat and we celebrated by enjoying G+T’s on the top deck and were introduced to ‘Black Mariah’.

The following three days were spent in Lastovo’s Archipelago Nature park- the most idyllic place of all. We were spoilt by the luscious vegetation and marine life that surrounded us. Some personal highlights from this wonderful island: locals who travelled around by dinghy delivering bread and pastries to any anchored vessel, the four of us star gazing on the top deck- mesmerised by the little air pollution, the exhausting yet thoroughly enjoyable 20 mile cycle around the island topped with a fantastic lunch in ‘Fumari’.

Next up was a 30 mile sail to Ston, we spent the evening in a restaurant where a large table of crew members dined from the world’s second largest super yacht named ‘Perlorus’.

The ‘much talked about’ Pelorus super yacht

We indulged in freshly barbequed fish and home grown salad and chips and enjoyed conversing with the crew members and learning how ‘the other half live’! Keira and I spent our last night on the boat in Cavtat before S+I took us to shore to wave us goodbye as we parted ways. A truly unforgettable holiday filled with cultural discoveries, delicious food, some exercise, and great company- thank you Sarah and Ian for a wonderful boating experience. 

I don’t know if you want to put this in the blog but I just wanted to say a special thank you to Ian for teaching me the basics about sailing, I can confidently work out the maths when it comes to calculating the distance, speed, and duration from destination to destination (just about!) Sarah, thank you for inspiring me with your cooking and acting as nurse when I fell over and cut my knee. I am so grateful to you both for inviting me onto the boat, you spoilt me! I look back with such fond memories that will stay with me forever. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Murter to Brac

The view south from the terrace of Ali and Paul’s villa in Osibova Bay.

Having waved off Alice and Ian we set sail to the south to sort out Ian’s tooth and head for Brac to meet the Clements-Hunts. We arrived in our anchorage after a fantastic downwind sail. We listened to Test Match Special commentary on the World Cup Cricket the whole way! Fantastic! 

We arrived in Vinisce, a large protected bay where we have been before.  It was quite busy on a Thursday as it is a good last stop for charter boats returning to base in Trogir.

However, we squeezed in next to an Austrian boat we had previously seen in Prolak Mali Zdrelac.

Nice spot.   

Next morning we motored over to Trogir and anchored off resort town called Segut from where we could take the dinghy ashore for Ian’s visit to the dentist. 

The wind was fairly brisk but the holding was good and we felt reasonably confident in leaving the boat for a couple of hours.

Ian’s treatment went well and now all that remains is for him to have a crown fitted at some point.  But, no more pain.

We scuttled back to Vinisce and awaited further windy and unsettled weather.

The weather forecast was still rather gloomy; showing that there would be strong gusts accompanied by thunder and lightning over the next few days. 

Although we had started the engine and had every intention of setting off to Brac on the Saturday to meet up with Alison and Paul et al, in the end, we just weren’t happy and decided to play safe and stay in the wonderful protection of Vinisce.

On the plus side, were able to listen to the cricket and some of the tennis on Five Live but decided to download the Wimbledon men’s final so I could watch it at leisure on Monday.  (Hence, I was off my phone for 24 hours so I wouldn’t accidentally hear/see the results although one of the commentators on TMS nearly let the cat out of the bag! In any case, we couldn’t have coped with the tension of listening to/watching both the cricket and the tennis simultaneously!)

We went ashore and took a lovely walk all the way along to the headland.  With a couple of restaurants, bars, shops, buses and bakery there was everything here that we could possibly need, and all so close at hand.

On Monday, after the promised storms had failed to materialise fully and we felt safe enough to set off.  I watched the tennis.  What a match!

We arrived into Osibova Bay on Brac.  We saw everyone waving and really appreciated the wonderful welcome but couldn’t find a spot to anchor nearby because of the depth and narrowness of the bay.  We elected to take a mooring buoy and hang the expense!

We soon locked up the boat and shot over to Ali and Paul’s villa nearby.  It was so lovely to see them all.  We were delighted to meet Sarah, Rupert, George and Anna, too!

We spent the next few days enjoying the feeling of terra firma beneath our feet, eating, drinking, walking, cycling, chatting, reading and relaxing (and, I cannot deny, utilising the luxury of guilt free showers, free flowing fresh water and a washing machine!)

The land gang had organised a boat hire for a few days and so together with our dinghy we were all ten of us able to head out to explore the little bays and inlets nearby.  We packed a picnic and set off.  Jojo acted as wine waiter between the two boats.  We swam in the crystal clear waters and took a walk to an impressive lighthouse.

On the Wednesday, Ian offered to take Paul, Aaron, Jojo, George and Anna for a day out on Linea. 

They were then going to anchor in a bay called Smrka, a little further down the coast. 

Uala Smrka, O Brac, where we enjoyed the traditional and freshly prepared food from www.milnaski.com

There, Ali had organised a traditional Croatian dining experience for us all in a magical setting.  We ate an amazing meal cooked by Andrea and her husband.  All the food was cooked over open coals or under a peka (a metal dome that sits over a dish of meat and potatoes, cooking for hours)

The produce used in cooking, the wine and the olive oil had all been grown on Andrea’s family farm near Milna, Brac.  It was a lovely evening. (You must book in advance on www.milnaski.com)

We stayed on board Linea that night and Andrea gave everyone else a lift home. 

Next day, we motored back to Osibova bay and took up our mooring buoy.  Still no one had come to charge us. (Yeah!)

Next day, we were just sitting around enjoying a pre-prandial drink when a guy came up the steps of the villa.  The mooring buoy fee collector from Lucice Bay restaurant had tracked us down.  Hey ho!  We coughed up the 140Euros we owed him for three nights on a block of concrete with no other services or facilities. The final night we got for free as we had left before he came to collect!

After yet another fantastic group effort on the meal production front, we bid farewell to everyone and went home to Linea.  It had been a wonderful week catching up with great friends from Bangkok days, gosh….26 and a bit years since we first met!

We set off up the coast to the north – aiming for our hurricane hole of Rogoznica.  Whilst en route, my brother Paddy phoned to say he’d like to come and visit and bring my rather large and bulky birthday pressie with him, if that would be ok. 

Absolutely!  And, I was even more delighted, when I guessed that the pressie was to be the size and shape of my nephew Louis!

So, we now have a new set of visitors to look forward to which helps me feel less bereft about having to say goodbye to the last ones.

Next time, read about our week with Paddy and Louis.

Back in the MddR!!

Porto Turistico Marina di Ragusa, Sicilia, Italia.

 

So here we are, to para-phrase The Beatles, Back in the MddR!!!

 

We are loving the community feel and the gorgeous November weather. 

On Saturday, Sheena, a great friend from uni, who lives in Rome, came for a quick weekend visit. 

We had a wonderful time catching up with her and phoning Anne, Trish and Clare, our other Brudenell Avenue housemates from 2″1981-84!

 

Sheen had to leave on Monday and so we cracked on with some cleaning detail!

 

 

 

Laundry; in the new mini washing machine!

Polishing; all shackles, blocks and pulleys.

Oiling; anything that can move.

Taking down; all sails.

Removing lines and ropes; Running mousing lines instead of halyards and sheets.

Scrubbing; the bimini and sail bag.

De-barnacling:  the dinghy.

Fixing; De-rusting and cleaning the bikes.

De-rusting the bikes.

Bilges; cleaning and disinfecting.

Kim has been a model member of crew.   She has cracked on with allocated jobs with gusto and been a great giggle to boot.  In amongst, we have been to the beach, the market and to have a fabulous burger lunch at Burger Art!

On Wednesday 7th November Kostas and his friends came to pay a visit.  

 

 

 

 

Marina di Ragusa market on Tuesday mornings. Ian cooked mussels for tea! Yum!

The scrumptious Burger Art for Lunch prior to Kim’s departure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So far we have had happy hours, coffee mornings, rugby internationals, drinks next door, dinner with Di and John, trash Monday beach cleaning, a presentation about sailing in French Polynesia and much more.  It’s a very active community here.

Now we have  less than a week left to prep the boat for winter, socialise with all our MdR friends and get our heads ready for our winter season in the Sutski chalet.

We return to The Shire on the 19th November!

Sailing to Sicily.

As soon as Kostas had left, we slipped our lines and set off from Pilos for the 350 mile journey back to  Marina di Ragusa.  On reflection, perhaps not the best plan, but we were anxious to get on to ensure that we had good weather for the entire crossing.  Unfortunately, it was really lumpy at sea and we hadn’t really had chance to get our sea legs; so we all felt a bit grim.

We had a fast sail for the first few hours then during mine and Kim’s watch, on a profoundly dark night, a squall blew in and hit the main sail hard pushing it across and breaking the preventer line on the boom.  We managed to drop a reef in and stabalise the boat but it was a little scary for a while.

Spot the birdie.

The next day brought really light winds so we were motoring for the entire day and night.  Finally, we were able to sail again from about midnight on the third evening.  During our watch on the third night a flock of birds appeared and showed off with a dazzling aerobatics display at the mast head.  Two birds stowed away on board to rest up before setting off on their migratory flight again in the morning.

Whilst Ian was on watch, he called me up on deck at 0130h as we had snagged the keel on a thick line attached to some kind of fishing float.  In a matter of minutes, the boat had slowed from a respectable 4.5kts down to 2.5kts.

Just as quickly, we began picking up speed again and were confident that the line had slipped away.  It was a good thing it was so heavy and that we were sailing, not motoring.  We did not want that size of rope around our propeller.

Taking down the Greek courtesy flag and putting up the Italian one.

As daylight dawned, we could make out the coast of Sicily.

As we neared MdR, we decided to have a swim.

a) To wash off the accumulated grime from the last four days without showering, and,

b) To double check that there were no ropes around the keel, etc., before we made any strong turns into the marina.

We were soon showered, refreshed and dressed in clean clothes.  We looked south and noticed some threatening clouds.  Kim said that they looked like Dementors.  Within minutes, the wind had whipped up to 35kts and the rain came lashing down. We had just called the marina to announce our arrival but called them back to say that we would stand off and come in once everything had calmed down.  We waited for 45 minutes, staying head to wind and bouncing along the waves that had built up from virtually nothing.

A much-needed chocolate boost was distributed and gradually our heart rates and the weather began to calm down.

We made it into the marina and to our berth with no problems. Although, Ian later revealed, the alternator had a final, almost fatal,  flurry to add to the frisson of the moment!  It stopped working briefly but then rallied and seemed to recover itself!

Porto Turistico Marina di Ragusa.

There was a  wonderful welcoming committee on the pontoon.

After pizza and a good night’s sleep we felt much brighter and on  Saturday began to winterise the boat, as well as complete the huge list of jobs; cleaning, repairing, and, of course, socialising.

Preparations in Pilos

The harbour at Pilos.

Having decided on the perfect weather window to get us across to Sicily, a further problem with the alternator meant that we missed the chance to leave when we wanted to.  We then had to wait for a few more days to be sure of a three day window.  Regrettably, this meant that we were not going to be back in MdR in time to see Gaye and Chris.  Bloody boat and weather!

Claire, Paul, Pete and Ian.

On the plus side though, it did mean that we could ask if Kim wanted to help with the crossing.  She said, ‘Yes’, and within 36 hours was travelling to Athens and on to Pilos.  We also met Carol and Paul on Swallow and Claire and Pete on Blue Vigil and had good times with them.

So much could be re-cycled and re-used on these ‘dead’ boats!

We were surrounded  by ‘dead’ yachts that had been abandoned in Pilos. What a waste!

Ian was taken off by the port police because they thought he had been trying to remove some of the equipment on board one of the abandoned boats – as if!

Last of the three Gyros!!!!

On Monday 29th October, we explored a little more of the town with Kim and had our last ever gyros.

We provisioned up for the trip across to Sicily and then spent the afternoon cooking and getting ready to go.

We did not fancy these though!

The next morning we were up at 0530hrs and preparing to drop the lines.  Ian started the engine as he had every morning since we had the alternator fixed.  It wasn’t working properly AGAIN!

We rang Kostas who came out for a third time, to have another look and try to fix the problem once and for all.

He took the offending alternator away to repair it in Kalamata.  Kindly, he offered Ian a lift to Messini as we decided to purchase a generator in case the alternator should pack up during our return to Sicily.  This was our back up plan.

Kostas soon had the alternator repaired and was happy with everything.  He is going to Sicily on holiday next week so we have arranged to meet up.