Tag Archives: Bavaria 430 Lagoon

Getting to know Gaeta

Once the thunder and rain storms had passed we ventured out. When we discovered that we were the only liveaboard boat we did begin to wonder if we had been right to leave the comfort blanket of Marina di Ragusa and its vibrant community.

Jayne Koehler, who is the port officer here came round to say hello and before long I was being whisked into town to be shown around.

To start with Jayne showed me Via Independenza which is an narrow alleyway full of small shops, stalls, wine merchants, tiellerie, (local pie shops), bakers, butchers, clothes shops, estate agents, bars, coffee shops, stationers, pizzerie, trattorie, casalinghue, ferramente – you name it, you can find it here.

She introduced me to most of the shop keepers and I felt warmly welcomed.

Later that day I showed Ian what I had discovered. We loved the quirky street. It is like a throw back. The signs above the doors have not changed in decades. It is scruffy but beguiling and everyone is so friendly.

The town is literally right on the door step of the boat and I think we are going to be happy here.

The next day, we walked down to the old part of town. The historic centre. The walk is a stunning stroll down a leafy boulevarde, along a huge promenade called the Lungomare. It must be four kilometres in length. Palm trees rustle over head and the tall flat topped pines cast a useful shade under their umbrella fronds.

We happened upon a tennis club which I would love to join….I made tentative enquiries, we’ll see if I’m brave enough to actually join.

We loved the winding streets, the steps and hairpin bends, the churches and old castle walls. We were fascinated to note that their was an international symposium of scholars of ancient manuscripts gathering for a two day conference on the future of studying manuscripts! Perhaps something was lost in translation but it was amazing to us that there even was such a thing!

We came across a talented artist in her ceramics workshop. Soon we were on first name terms. I hope to see her again. Maybe I can try my hand at decorating a ceramic tile?

On the way home we visited the wine shop. Wine is decanted into your own bottles. Luckily, in our bag, there were three we had the foresight to bring with us! We tasted the wine. I don’t know why exactly, as we were sure to buy! They were a bargain at E1.60 a litre!

Things were looking up!

The nearest beach

The next day we walked across the isthmus to investigate the beach. On the northwest facing side of the Gaeta promontory is a massive beach. The beach concessions were in the process of dismantling fencing, umbrella holders and equipment, so, once that is done the beach will be the territory of the winter residents once more.

Looking up to Monte di Spaccata

Our walk the next day was a more strenuous stroll up hill towards the Monastry of the Spaccata. This monastery/church was built into a split in the rock literally hovering a hundred metres from the sea below. The views were incredible from the top and we had the added bonus of people watching the congregation as the disgorged from church.

Big man, small car.

There are lots more walks around the Parco d’Orlando which we will do when it is less hot.

We have now discovered that there will be five other boats arriving for the winter. Of these the crew of three of them will spend most of the winter here. Another boat is being lifted onto the hard but they may visit for a holiday. So there will be a small community here, plus Jayne, the port officer.

Winds batter us and send waves over the pontoon

Today we walked North along the prom into the strong winds buffeting the outer pontoons of the marina. It has been quite wild out and we, for one, are very glad of the breakwater effect that USS Mount Whitney has on our berth.

Dominic the bike guy.

We have bought ourselves some bikes today which Dominic at the bike shop will buy back from us when we leave for half of what we paid for them. Seems like a bargain.

We have also hired a car for a few days so that we can do errands, shopping, gas refills, sewing machine repairs, laundry and most importantly go over the Appennines to Penne, Abruzzo to meet up with my great friends Paula, Lyndsay and Peter.

Guest Blog; Keira and Lucy on Linea

20/08/19-01/09/19

A few highlights from a fantastic two week holiday in Croatia…

After a flying visit to Dubrovnik with Keira, we travelled 4 hours by ferry on Wednesday to Milna on the island of Brač. Sarah and Ian were on the town quay awaiting our arrival and we walked to where Linea was moored. After a long catch up, a delicious homemade curry, and a few glasses of wine, we were ready for bed, and slept soundly for the first night on the boat.

Thursday, we set off to Smrka bay, which was beautiful, it even housed an old Military tunnel left over from the Former Yugoslavia, and an old house left in its ori​ginal state.

The house was complete with an outside shower and toilet, as well as a large open fire in the main room of the house, used for cooking a traditional supper for dinner guests who wish to enjoy a traditional Croatian meal.

Friday, we managed to sail the full 19 miles to Vis as we were lucky with the 5.6 knots of wind in our favour.

The incredible dolphin sightings out at sea- thanks Ian for always spotting them whilst we were deeply involved in our respective books

Saturday was by far the most interesting day as we set off from Vis town by Land Rover to visit three different military bases. Equipped with helmets and headlamps, the tour started in the underground tunnels. We explored the labyrinth of tunnels and bunkers, saw the remains of cannons and abandoned warehouses.

The views from the top were incredible! The tour guide pointed out Tito’s cave and informed us that the leader used this as a Partisan hideout from the invading Nazi forces during the Second World War. We were left fascinated by a tour so rich in culture and history that afterwards, we spent some time discussing it with our guide over a well-earned beer.

The view from the top

Sunday, we sailed 30 miles to Korčula.

I think now it is the right time to mention that England thrashed Australia in the Ashes. Despite mine and Keira’s disinterest in the cricket, I know that S+I will be thrilled that I mention this here, it did create a buzzy atmosphere on the boat and we celebrated by enjoying G+T’s on the top deck and were introduced to ‘Black Mariah’.

The following three days were spent in Lastovo’s Archipelago Nature park- the most idyllic place of all. We were spoilt by the luscious vegetation and marine life that surrounded us. Some personal highlights from this wonderful island: locals who travelled around by dinghy delivering bread and pastries to any anchored vessel, the four of us star gazing on the top deck- mesmerised by the little air pollution, the exhausting yet thoroughly enjoyable 20 mile cycle around the island topped with a fantastic lunch in ‘Fumari’.

Next up was a 30 mile sail to Ston, we spent the evening in a restaurant where a large table of crew members dined from the world’s second largest super yacht named ‘Perlorus’.

The ‘much talked about’ Pelorus super yacht

We indulged in freshly barbequed fish and home grown salad and chips and enjoyed conversing with the crew members and learning how ‘the other half live’! Keira and I spent our last night on the boat in Cavtat before S+I took us to shore to wave us goodbye as we parted ways. A truly unforgettable holiday filled with cultural discoveries, delicious food, some exercise, and great company- thank you Sarah and Ian for a wonderful boating experience. 

I don’t know if you want to put this in the blog but I just wanted to say a special thank you to Ian for teaching me the basics about sailing, I can confidently work out the maths when it comes to calculating the distance, speed, and duration from destination to destination (just about!) Sarah, thank you for inspiring me with your cooking and acting as nurse when I fell over and cut my knee. I am so grateful to you both for inviting me onto the boat, you spoilt me! I look back with such fond memories that will stay with me forever. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

From Crotone to Croatia

Thunder clouds heading south and away!

We continued to hop along the coast of Southern Italy and made it as far as Brindisi.  The thing about hopping along the coast to arrive at a destination some way off is that it means you are doing very long days and when you arrive you have no energy to go off and explore. This means you probably need to stay at least two days to be able to see any of the places you stop at. Each time you anchor it is necessary to lower the dinghy into the water and reverse the process when it is time to go – so its a bit of a pain.

As it happens, we have only managed to go ashore in Santa Maria di Leuca and Brindisi.

In Brindisi, we moored stern to the quay in a fab location by the Appian Way steps; the boat was thoroughly put to bed; we had completed our log updates; changed into our shore clothes and even applied a little lippy (Just Sarah!), we were just getting ready to disembark – so some considerable time had elapsed…when an official in a Brindisi to Corfu Ragatta 2019  T-shirt showed up and told us emphatically that we couldn’t park there.  Grrr! Where was he when we came in??

So, we headed off again, this time to the marina.  We were tied up securely by about 7pm.  After sorting out the paperwork with the office (all in Italian!) and getting ship shape we decided on a pizza supper in the marina restaurant.  (42 Euros per night, laundry, more sinks at various heights and showers and loos than I have ever seen in any marina, friendly marineros and staff, just a bus ride out of the main town.)

Our plan was to carry on up the east coast to Vieste and then a short 50 mile hop across to Croatia. By now we has spent a lot of time motoring and looking at the weather for the next five days we would be doing a lot more motoring, we decided that the best possible chance of sailing to Croatia would be the following day.  So plan A was abandoned in favour of a crossing direct from Brindisi. The following morning whilst Ian sorted out an issue with the batteries and filled up with water, I headed to the mini market to stock up on supplies for the thirty hour crossing to Ubli, Lastovo, Croatia.

We managed to sail all day and all night and then motored the remaining 30nm when the wind died to 6 knots. 

En route we saw a couple of pods of dolphins and some big fish swam with the boat for about an hour. 

Now that we have given up fishing after the fishing line debacle in Syracuse, we see fish! I could practically have scooped them out with a net! Typical!

Lastovo is absolutely GORGEOUS! We found the check – in process to be smooth and efficient. The people were lovely. The place is spotless. We hired bikes from Dado at Rentacarlastovo and he brought them right to us. We enjoyed a big day cycling all round the island although we did find 5km of up on a gravel road in 35 degree heat quite a challenge!

We arrived back about 1800h in time for a refreshing beer with our new friend.

We didn’t even mind paying the National Marine Park fees of 200Kn/night. That’s about £25.

After three days we had a great sail north to Korcula and a pretty anchorage on the east side of an isthmus. Then the following day we managed a nice motor/sail east and round to an anchorage south of Korcula Town.

We have been here three days and its going to be hard to leave. We are in a fab, safe anchorage. It is only a short dinghy ride to Korcula. There is a pleasant breeze. The water is crystal clear.

Now, THIS, is what I signed up for!

3 Years of Linea

On the 6th March, 2016 Sarah and I moved on-board Linea in Vila Real, Portugal. Since then we have sailed 8,334 nautical miles, visited great places, seen lots of dolphins, sailed wild seas and enjoyed the company of lots of wonderful friends and family. So please join us in toasting the good ship Linea and her many visitors.

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Back in the MddR!!

Porto Turistico Marina di Ragusa, Sicilia, Italia.

 

So here we are, to para-phrase The Beatles, Back in the MddR!!!

 

We are loving the community feel and the gorgeous November weather. 

On Saturday, Sheena, a great friend from uni, who lives in Rome, came for a quick weekend visit. 

We had a wonderful time catching up with her and phoning Anne, Trish and Clare, our other Brudenell Avenue housemates from 2″1981-84!

 

Sheen had to leave on Monday and so we cracked on with some cleaning detail!

 

 

 

Laundry; in the new mini washing machine!

Polishing; all shackles, blocks and pulleys.

Oiling; anything that can move.

Taking down; all sails.

Removing lines and ropes; Running mousing lines instead of halyards and sheets.

Scrubbing; the bimini and sail bag.

De-barnacling:  the dinghy.

Fixing; De-rusting and cleaning the bikes.

De-rusting the bikes.

Bilges; cleaning and disinfecting.

Kim has been a model member of crew.   She has cracked on with allocated jobs with gusto and been a great giggle to boot.  In amongst, we have been to the beach, the market and to have a fabulous burger lunch at Burger Art!

On Wednesday 7th November Kostas and his friends came to pay a visit.  

 

 

 

 

Marina di Ragusa market on Tuesday mornings. Ian cooked mussels for tea! Yum!

The scrumptious Burger Art for Lunch prior to Kim’s departure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So far we have had happy hours, coffee mornings, rugby internationals, drinks next door, dinner with Di and John, trash Monday beach cleaning, a presentation about sailing in French Polynesia and much more.  It’s a very active community here.

Now we have  less than a week left to prep the boat for winter, socialise with all our MdR friends and get our heads ready for our winter season in the Sutski chalet.

We return to The Shire on the 19th November!