All too soon, our days in sunny Koh Tao with our darling daughter, were coming to an end.
We began to measure time in terms of the number of remaining meals we could take at Tukta’s. (The most fantastic, authentic and reasonably priced Thai food on the island!)
We had so many things to fit in to the last remaining days… Ian wanted to dive with Erin. We had booked to help out at a beach clean up with the delightful Josh from Master Divers on Mae Haad. There was yoga-ing, shopping, tanning, reading, eating and games playing to do.
One day, we walked over to Haad Tian beach and half way up a vertical hill were thankfully offered a lift from a local fisherman to the beautiful resort hotel there.
It was gorgeous; land to sand luxury!
Since we were complete interlopers, only getting through the security-guarded gates by virtue of being best pals with the local fisherman and restaurateur (Eagle View), we were banished to the tiny, narrow strip of sand under the gnarled roots and trunks of the mangrove trees along the edge of the beach. In this way, we were not encouraged to set foot on the green and hallowed turf of the sun-lounging area round the infinity pool, darling.
However, we had an interesting hour of tide-dancing, desperately trying to avoid the waves as they crashed up the beach on the incoming prevailing wind. So, with our second set of exercise completed for the day, it was time to relax and read…bliss.
On our return to Chakok, we came across a great vantage point to watch the sunset at the bar ‘Natural High’. It has a huge, open patio which offers amazing views of Chalok and its environs. From so high up and through the haze of spliff smoke, man, all you can see is tree canopy below. It’s tricky to identify landmarks and makes it seem all the more ethereal and remote, hovering there on its unique peak. We had a delicious dinner here and enjoyed some people watching before sand sliding down the hill.
During our last few days we spent a happy couple of hours helping Erin source the items she needed to decorate and equip her home. There are some great road side stalls and market places in Mae Haad and we spent time in them all. We spotted many bird cages en route complete with song birds that apparently Thai people take to bird singing competitions. That takes X Factor to a whole new level. The ‘Chick’ Factor perhaps?
We tried road side barbecued chicken for a snack on the walk back and for lunch I tested my paltry Thai at a food stall for Thai people (only Thai signs, no Englishified food, no English spoken), where we were assured we wouldn’t like anything they had to offer.
Well, as much as I’d like to say I eat anything, my digestive system and taste buds are not quite ready for chicken offal curry, and marrow spicy soup. I had fish curry and it was delicious but highly ‘prik’, as the vocabulary is here. My mouth was on fire. The centre of the table displayed a huge basket of vegetables and spices. Raw long beans, Thai basil (hot) Thai basil (sweet) and a variety of egg plants in every size. Ian had freshly deep fried fish in little batter clouds. Toptastic. However, I wasn’t brave enough to try meal worm and other delicacies offered at this road side stall.
We enjoyed our last lunch at Coconut Monkey in Mae Haad with Erin and Paul, also saying goodbye to Anne-Marie (our yoga teacher from Ocean Sound Yoga School). During our wait for the boat there was just time for Erin to secure victory in the traditional Holiday Back-gammon Championships.
Then we were heading back, bumping through lumpy waters, on the bilious Lomprayah Catamaran, to the mainland pier and then, by bus past the beautiful, unspoilt, deserted coastline beaches of Chomporn, to the town’s railway station.
We took a stroll round town and came across this well loaded motorbike, a fascinating police box and one of many gorgeous spirit houses.
After yet another other lovely roadside stall supper, we were back on the sleeper train which left Chomporn at 8.30pm so most passengers were already prone, tucked up in their little bunk beds behind twee, coral coloured curtains. Our beds were already made up and, soon, we too, were happily ensconced.
Next, we arrived in Bangkok at 5.30am…. The best time to be taking a taxi ride since there is virtually no traffic. We headed for Silom but somehow just struggled, in the Thai language department, to communicate sufficiently to find our friend Don’s apartment! Our fault, of course.
We had a wonderful day in Bangkok, catching up with friends and then it was silly o’clock again and we were heading to the airport at 4am to catch our flight to Doha.
So sad to be leaving Erin and Paul and lovely Thailand but looking forward to the next phase.
We left Linton, on the 15th January 2016 and set off via Oxford to drop off a load of Keira’s stuff, but not Keira, on our way to France. We were looking forward to staying with Nick and Claire at their place in the Alps for a little skiing, cavorting, consuming of the vins and generally eating too much cheese! A cheesy plug as it’s known in our house – although technically we haven’t got one anymore! A house, I mean, not a cheesy plug.)
A fantastic week was had! Thank you N and C!
Then a wonderful weekend with old friends from Bangkok and a straightforward drive back to the Shire. thank you A, P and J.
No messing – we are immediately off to do an RYA Diesel Engine Course so we can fix minor ailments to our engine when at sea.
Then we set too cleaning and redecorating a rental house which we manage to turn around in four days. A record we think! (House available to let)All the while, staying with relaxed and hospitable hosts in Threshfield. Thank you P and L.
On the 1st February we drove to the airport, pulling in at We Want Any Car.Com who do actually, car was sold and for more than they originally offered! (That’s quite a few extra mojitos, as you rightly point out, Amelia,) and then into a cab and onto the airport. Smooth.
And suddenly, unbelievably, delightedly, after a very hectic few weeks, we are heading to Thailand to liaise with our youngest daughter, Erin, who is living on Koh Tao at the moment.
The smell of 2 stroke engine exhaust and diesel fumes hits us like an olfactory blast as we step out of the air conditioned bubble that is Suvarnabhumi, the new airport in Bangkok. Memories associated with that smell flood back into our consciousness. Happy times spent with the girls when they were young, from 1992 – 1996 living and learning about Thailand and expat life some twenty odd years ago.
Can it really be so long?!
We head for the taxi queue. There is no problem finding a taxi these days. In the old days, the only way to find a taxi was to go to the departures level of the airport and grab a cab that was dropping someone off! We select a taxi ticket number and immediately step forward into our allocated bay to hand our bags, (incredibly heavy bags) to the welcoming arms of the friendly taxi driver.
We grin foolishly at each other! Glad to be back.
The taxi driver flicks on his meter (no persuasion necessary, no haggling, no bartering – how things have changed!) and heads off onto one of the many new highways that have crawled in all around Bangkok. Standing up on thick trunks of legs like massive flat-backed, grey caterpillars.
Tall glass-fronted buildings blink a morse welcome as we drive by in relatively free flowing traffic.
“Rot tit maak maak!” comments the driver. Lots of traffic!
And suddenly, on cue, we are being funnelled into a much smaller highway.
Six into two, won’t go!
We marvel at our driver’s ability to squeeze his vehicle into ever smaller spaces. We progress towards the centre of town and begin to recognise a few landmarks from the 90s.
“Oh, there’s Soi 1, where Ian’s office used to be. That’s where the Buddhist centre used to be. There’s Soi 3 where Miss Hong the dressmaker used to be. There’s Soi 5 where Foodland supermarket used to be! There’s Soi 11 where the Ambassador Hotel market and garden used to be. There’s Soi 13 where our apartment used to be!”
So much building has been going on we are using the past tense, a lot!
Finally, we turn into the Soi where we are to stay. So much activity, so many lights, people, taxis, tuk-tuks, noise, street vendors, motorbikes, and more people. sauntering down the middle of the road, as if it’s a pedestrian precinct.
The taxi ride was very reasonably priced 300Bt (About £6) including the toll fees, for the 12km ride from the airport. Amazing to think that the basic cost of a taxi ride had not gone up in twenty years. The meter taxis, which are government controlled and regulated, start at 35Bt and increase in those jumps every 3km or so. Fantastic value, and air-conditioned to boot.
We check in quickly and head out on to Soi 11 to explore relatively familiar territory. We take a stroll round the neighbourhood. It is evident that the sex trade, once reasonably discreet around what was a more residential part of town, has become much more overt. The number of tourists staying in hotels, room, hostels, and serviced apartments has increased. The small retailers and independent restaurants have gone and big buildings have been put on their footprint. Presumably, this nightlife has sprung up to entertain the tourists.
We spot Cheap Charlie’s Bar; a blast from the past. Not at all changed, thankfully. We order a couple of beers at the bar which is decorated with drift wood, an electric toy train on a weaving track, baskets, bamboo, bird cages, woven items of all kinds; and stand within the chain that runs in an arc along the ground around the bar, marking the boundary across which we are urged not to stand. We have just upped the average age, within the perimeter!
We wander off down the street and find a street restaurant and shuffle between tables to sit on a platform overlooking the street. So vibrant and busy even at this hour. We eat a delicious Thai meal, with beers, only about £20 in total.
Afterwards, we continue on to explore the surrounding Sois or alleyways around here, weaving between stalls, bodies and pillars. Gradually negotiating our way along the uneven surfaces that are typical of Bangkok’s pavements; Sky Train supports, paving stones and up-turned concrete slabs, like sneering lips. Trees, giving much needed oxygen, steps up to shop doorways, signs and poster frames, stalls and umbrellas all conspiring to trip and poke and hit you as you move gracelessly along.
Before long we are overwhelmed with tiredness. Hot and sweaty all over again, we head back to the sanctuary of our room, a cold shower, and blissful sleep!
Day one in the big city.
We have various errands to complete today. We set off up Sukhumvit road but all the shops are closed until 1030hrs. We duck into a MacDonald’s and order a coffee. (Expensive at 270Bt and we thought Mackie D’s was cheap!) Soon we head off to the Sky Train and buy an all-day pass for the princely sum of 180B. (About £3.)
New SIM card – check.
Train tickets purchased for trip to Koh Tao – check.
Chicken noodle soup purchased and consumed (50Bt) New spectactacles investigated for Sarah -check.
Hair cut and pedicure – check.
Visit our old friends Jo and Tim Cooke to celebrate Jo’s birthday – check.
Fabulous day, calloo callay!
Slept in ’til 1100 hrs, aaaargh!!!!!
Dashed to the Blitish Crub to meet old friend and colleague Don Smith. This gorgeous old building looks like something out of the Indian Raj. What a pleasure to sit in its spacious gardens and allow the memories to flood back.
Back in the 90’s, I joined a baby group called BAMBI based at the British Club situated between Silom and Surawongse Roads (Babies and Mothers Bangkok International). A weekly social gathering for mums and babies which was a real lifeline for me, as I wasn’t working and therefore had few ways of meeting people. We were allowed to use the facilities of the BC during the morning and it was through this that I came to know about the Neilson Hays Library which is right next door to the BC.
This neo-classical building completed in 1922, in which a huge collection of books is displayed and stored in gorgeous teak cabinets, is a jewel sadly overshadowed and utterly overlooked, by all the leggy high rises around it. The library was set up in the 1869 by a group of thirteen volunteers including the Danish wife of an American expat Doctor, Jennie Neilson Hays. It currently has a collection of some 20000 volumes. A haven of peace and serenity in the mad bustle that is Bangkok – City of Angels.
Back in the day, I was soon to join the committee of volunteers running the library and thoroughly enjoyed the experience it offered. Not only did I meet some delightful friends among the volunteers but I was fortunate enough to meet Iris Murdoch, (Not that she would remember, as, by then, she was firmly in the grip of Alzheimer’s, much to her companion, John Bailey’s, obvious irritation and slight despair.) when she came to give a key note speech at a literary convention in Bangkok, in 1995 or 96 and we snaffled her for a Q and A and book signing.
Back to lunch at the British club…We had a great catch up and chat with Don and soon it was time for hasty farewells. We grabbed a taxi to take us to Hua Lumpong train station – another beautiful building in Bangkok designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno, the same architect who designed the NHL.
Finding our train and platform proved to be a very straightforward task and we climbed aboard onto the first carriage conveniently situated at the end of the platform. Sitting down in the wide chairs on either side of the carriage. There are four chairs facing each other, divided by the aisle. Later in the evening the attendant will come and transform these seats into two parallel lower bunk beds and he will lower the upper bunks from their tucked away positions against the walls of the train. The air conditioned (freezing cold) sleeper compartment was positively chilly!
We attentively watched, from the relative seclusion of the carriage, the goings-on on the platforms around us; people waiting with mountains of luggage in boxes tied up with the ubiquitous red nylon string; backpackers staggering along under the weight of their enormous packs; hawkers selling every kind of goody and snack. (Everything except alcohol, since an unpleasant incident on one of the sleeper trains, the sale of alcohol, in stations or on board trains, has been banned.).
We saw the impressive transport policemen in their perfectly starched, pristine uniforms; complete with obligatory pips on their epaulettes and coloured ribbons, military style, on their top pockets.
Suddenly, Ian nudged me to look in the opposite direction and I was just in time to see, but not photograph, a trolley being towed upon which was precariously balanced an enormous sitting buddha, completely swathed in orange robes! Fantastic!!!
The lady in the ticket office had warned us, matter of factly, rather than apologetically, that the train would be late leaving and late arriving! However, it left bang on time and soon we were jogging along as if in a vehicle with one corner on every wheel, bumpetty bump, bumpetty bump! Through the centre of Bangkok and out to the suburbs.
We ordered our dinner from a chatty Thai lady from the dining car, and at 1930hrs toddled along to eat. We were the only people there. Fair game for being stared at whilst we ate! A pleasant enough meal. Then back to our seats where the train attendants had set up our top bunks, made up with crisp white sheets, pillow and starched case and comfy, brilliant white waffle blanket. Bliss.
And so to ablutions…Sinks, soap and mirrors were in the corridor. Not sparkling clean but perfectly serviceable for a lick and promise and teeth cleaning. The loo was a squat toilet which drained directly on to the tracks below. It had a hose for bottom washing (no loo paper here) flushing and washing any unintentional splashes! (Only to be expected when you’re balancing, yogic style, as you tonk along – clicketty clack!) Furthermore, to add to the luxury, I noticed that there was even a shower hose if you wanted to go the whole hog and have a complete dowsing down. Although, you’d have to be extra careful not to drop the soap, of course!
We ricochetted back down our carriage to our bunks and heaved ourselves up the ladders attached to the luggage racks, Up the hill to Bedlington. We snuggled in behind our coral coloured curtains and were gently rocked to sleep by the motion of the train by 2115hrs.
Up and at ’em by 0318hr when the train pulled into Chumporn Station.
We sat enjoying some serious people watching for a couple of hours and then took a quick bus transfer to the pier and thence on to the Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran to Koh Tao.
By 1015hrs we were ensconced having a top, healthy breakfast of muesli and yoghurt overlooking the sea eagerly awaiting the arrival of our welcoming committee in the form of Erin and Paul!