Murter to Brac

The view south from the terrace of Ali and Paul’s villa in Osibova Bay.

Having waved off Alice and Ian we set sail to the south to sort out Ian’s tooth and head for Brac to meet the Clements-Hunts. We arrived in our anchorage after a fantastic downwind sail. We listened to Test Match Special commentary on the World Cup Cricket the whole way! Fantastic! 

We arrived in Vinisce, a large protected bay where we have been before.  It was quite busy on a Thursday as it is a good last stop for charter boats returning to base in Trogir.

However, we squeezed in next to an Austrian boat we had previously seen in Prolak Mali Zdrelac.

Nice spot.   

Next morning we motored over to Trogir and anchored off resort town called Segut from where we could take the dinghy ashore for Ian’s visit to the dentist. 

The wind was fairly brisk but the holding was good and we felt reasonably confident in leaving the boat for a couple of hours.

Ian’s treatment went well and now all that remains is for him to have a crown fitted at some point.  But, no more pain.

We scuttled back to Vinisce and awaited further windy and unsettled weather.

The weather forecast was still rather gloomy; showing that there would be strong gusts accompanied by thunder and lightning over the next few days. 

Although we had started the engine and had every intention of setting off to Brac on the Saturday to meet up with Alison and Paul et al, in the end, we just weren’t happy and decided to play safe and stay in the wonderful protection of Vinisce.

On the plus side, were able to listen to the cricket and some of the tennis on Five Live but decided to download the Wimbledon men’s final so I could watch it at leisure on Monday.  (Hence, I was off my phone for 24 hours so I wouldn’t accidentally hear/see the results although one of the commentators on TMS nearly let the cat out of the bag! In any case, we couldn’t have coped with the tension of listening to/watching both the cricket and the tennis simultaneously!)

We went ashore and took a lovely walk all the way along to the headland.  With a couple of restaurants, bars, shops, buses and bakery there was everything here that we could possibly need, and all so close at hand.

On Monday, after the promised storms had failed to materialise fully and we felt safe enough to set off.  I watched the tennis.  What a match!

We arrived into Osibova Bay on Brac.  We saw everyone waving and really appreciated the wonderful welcome but couldn’t find a spot to anchor nearby because of the depth and narrowness of the bay.  We elected to take a mooring buoy and hang the expense!

We soon locked up the boat and shot over to Ali and Paul’s villa nearby.  It was so lovely to see them all.  We were delighted to meet Sarah, Rupert, George and Anna, too!

We spent the next few days enjoying the feeling of terra firma beneath our feet, eating, drinking, walking, cycling, chatting, reading and relaxing (and, I cannot deny, utilising the luxury of guilt free showers, free flowing fresh water and a washing machine!)

The land gang had organised a boat hire for a few days and so together with our dinghy we were all ten of us able to head out to explore the little bays and inlets nearby.  We packed a picnic and set off.  Jojo acted as wine waiter between the two boats.  We swam in the crystal clear waters and took a walk to an impressive lighthouse.

On the Wednesday, Ian offered to take Paul, Aaron, Jojo, George and Anna for a day out on Linea. 

They were then going to anchor in a bay called Smrka, a little further down the coast. 

Uala Smrka, O Brac, where we enjoyed the traditional and freshly prepared food from

There, Ali had organised a traditional Croatian dining experience for us all in a magical setting.  We ate an amazing meal cooked by Andrea and her husband.  All the food was cooked over open coals or under a peka (a metal dome that sits over a dish of meat and potatoes, cooking for hours)

The produce used in cooking, the wine and the olive oil had all been grown on Andrea’s family farm near Milna, Brac.  It was a lovely evening. (You must book in advance on

We stayed on board Linea that night and Andrea gave everyone else a lift home. 

Next day, we motored back to Osibova bay and took up our mooring buoy.  Still no one had come to charge us. (Yeah!)

Next day, we were just sitting around enjoying a pre-prandial drink when a guy came up the steps of the villa.  The mooring buoy fee collector from Lucice Bay restaurant had tracked us down.  Hey ho!  We coughed up the 140Euros we owed him for three nights on a block of concrete with no other services or facilities. The final night we got for free as we had left before he came to collect!

After yet another fantastic group effort on the meal production front, we bid farewell to everyone and went home to Linea.  It had been a wonderful week catching up with great friends from Bangkok days, gosh….26 and a bit years since we first met!

We set off up the coast to the north – aiming for our hurricane hole of Rogoznica.  Whilst en route, my brother Paddy phoned to say he’d like to come and visit and bring my rather large and bulky birthday pressie with him, if that would be ok. 

Absolutely!  And, I was even more delighted, when I guessed that the pressie was to be the size and shape of my nephew Louis!

So, we now have a new set of visitors to look forward to which helps me feel less bereft about having to say goodbye to the last ones.

Next time, read about our week with Paddy and Louis.

Leave a Reply