Having cycled 70 miles from Puerto de Pollenca, through the stunning mountains in the North of Mallorca, the 5 of us arrived at around 4pm to our favourite little beach bar where we’d arranged to meet up with Ian and Sarah. On a high from our exertions, and dehydrated from the heat of the day, we eagerly gulped down our beers while we waited. There was no mistaking them when they arrived, but gone were the shackles of life in the Dales – I couldn’t now imagine Ian wearing a shirt and tie and conforming to the routine of a steady job. They both looked somehow ‘nautical’ and at one with their new life bobbing around the Mediterranean in their boat Linea. It was good to see them and to catch up with their latest exploits. After another round of drinks (or two) spirits were high and we headed back to our apartment, just a hundred metres away, and retired to our private rooftop terrace, complete with barbecue and hot tub. While Ben, Adam and Leah went off to shop for food for the evening, we chatted about home in the Dales and the stark contrast of their new life on the boat. More drinks and a fabulous barbecue later, the kids disappeared to go and find a bar where they could watch the Champions League final, while we opted for a soak in the hot tub. The space of the villa struck Sarah in particular, who, having lived aboard for around 3 months already, was clearly aware of the tight spaces inherent in any yacht design. The wind was strong and once we’d dried off, it was sadly time for Ian and Sarah to head back to Linea to keep an eye on her overnight as she pulled on her bow anchor, bobbing and yawing in the bay throughout the night.
The following day, with the wind still blowing strongly, we headed off for another bike ride – this time heading out towards Cap de Formentor, the lighthouse at the end of the most North Easterly peninsula of the island. It wasn’t too long before we realised that the excesses of the previous day (both cycling and drinking!) were having an adverse effect on our ability to pedal, so we turned back, had breakfast and did a spot of sunbathing before walking to the marina where Ian had agreed to pick us up in the tender to have the afternoon aboard Linea. The 15hp outboard pushed all 6 of us very nicely into a strong headwind out into the bay and towards Linea at anchor. As we approached, there was Sarah, waving from the stern ready to take our painter (technical term for the line that attaches the tender to the yacht). Having chartered many yachts around the Med (in Greece and Croatia) it soon became apparent that this was no ordinary charter yacht. This was a solid yacht, built for sailing and for living aboard. For a start, a slab-reefed Mainsail took the place of the now common in-mast furling sails (which perform very poorly upwind by comparison). Once aboard and furnished with yet more beer (after all it was 3pm by this stage), Ian took us on a tour around the deck. Everywhere I looked this yacht was different. There was more mast rigging and a more substantial mast to start with. On top of that, all the deck gear (pulleys, winches, cleats and jammers) looked like they’d come off a much larger yacht – all very substantial. The Spinnaker pole and foresail pole were both solidly built with beautifully crafted stainless steel fairleads and cleats at bow, stern and mid-ships. An array of other kit was festooned on the mast and spreaders including radar, VHF antenna, Foghorn and lights. Mounted to the tender Davitts (used to lower and hoist the tender when not in use), a powerful floodlight, directed at the mainsail area could be switched on to highlight the sail like a triangular beacon in case a passing craft should fail to notice the navigation lights during a night passage. It would be impossible to miss Linea (unless of course the watch were asleep!) A powerful wind generator and array of solar panels mounted at the stern meant that Ian and Sarah could run their fridge for free without running the engine – not important when you’re on a 1 week cruise, but expensive in diesel, and noisy, if you live aboard. Beyond this, the boat has an incredible array of electronic ‘clutter’ – some of which works and some of which doesn’t, covering all manner of requirements – man overboard, more VHF antennas, wi-fi booster, etc. etc.
The deck is coated in a sandtex type product which affords excellent grip, but also takes the skin off your knees – and it’s surprising just how much time you spend on your knees on a yacht, especially as a Catholic! The cockpit has plenty of space and is very comfortable for 2 – perhaps a little crowded for the 7 of us – as the spilled bowls of crisps and broken glass confirmed later. It’s surprising just how far tiny pieces of toughened glass can scatter when crushed by Sarah’s bare foot! Talking of bare feet, at my suggestion, Ian took a great shot of my cod-like lady white feet (which had, to be fair, been in cycling shoes all week) next to his very brown, weathered man feet.
Down below, the electronic wizardry continued with a myriad of kit, without which, one wonders how Magellan, Cook and Shackleton ever managed. I’ve never seen a Bavaria like this one. This was from the early Bavaria stables and the difference between it and the typical modern day budget versions (though they have improved of late) is staggering. The quality of the joinery wouldn’t be found on any, but the most expensive of modern yachts. Overall, a very nice 44ft yacht which is larger than one would imagine for its size. There are cubby holes in abundance – Ian has somehow even managed to get his bike on board!
On to the reality of life aboard … Having only ever once spent 3 weeks in one stint at sea, I can only imagine what this must be like. Surely this must be the true test of any relationship – and in reality, an unfair test. How many couples spend 24 hours per day, 7 days per week together, in the same 44ft long space – with nowhere to go and no decent doors to slam after a tiff? On the positive side, there are no shelves to hang and no wallpapering to do. In their place though, is an apparently, endless list of things to repair, replace, scrub and clean. I don’t know how many of you have ever been around a yacht chandlers? As an engineer, I happen to love them – but it won’t surprise you to know that you don’t get much change out of £100, regardless of what you need to buy! In terms of the general routine of life aboard – whilst there are certain routines that need to be adhered to (weather checks, engine checks, etc.), there is no fixed plan, no final destination, no need to go anywhere in actual fact. It must, therefore be quite pleasant to have a reason to go somewhere and to have to be there by a certain time. In the week we had been in Mallorca, Ian and Sarah had had a visit from Ian’s father who just happened to be sailing into Palma on a cruise ship for a day or two. This had given them a reason to sail from Soller where they had been based for several weeks, to Palma at the Western end of the Island. Following this, we had agreed to meet them at the end of the week at Puerto de Pollenca, diametrically opposite Palma at the other end of the Island. So, after saying their goodbyes to Ian’s Dad, they had sailed via the Southern coast to see us. The effort was very much appreciated – we had a lovely time. Sarah is doing a great job with her blog and Ian in keeping them both safe at sea. There are many followers looking out for details of their latest adventure.
Your friends are here in Wharfedale thinking about you both. Keep plugging away. It can’t be easy sometimes.
Nick Chown and family, on board May 2016