Carry on Croatia

Old Town Quay Trogir

So far we remain very impressed by Croatia. There are beautiful islands, pristine waters and stunning coves. There is interesting history and stunning churches, buildings and monuments. The sailing has been good and there are loads of free anchorages so living is relatively cheap.

We were very much looking forward to visiting Old Korcula town as we had heard so much about it. What worried us was how we go about visiting without it costing us an arm and a leg. After much research and advice from fellow cruisers, we decided we would anchor a couple of miles away and zip in in the dinghy. We visited couple of times and one evening we attended a farmers’ market. It was a very low key affair with mostly wine, tomatoes, olive oil and lavendar on sale – but pleasant enough. We bought some red Crno Suho Vino Plavac Mali and a white Petrusac made from Posip grapes from this characterful guy with a splendid moustache.

Next day, we did a drive by the monastery so I could take a decent pic. Here is the Franciscan Monastery of Badija.

After our Vrnik anchorage, we were heading for Loviste on the tip of the Peljesac Peninsula. We made the journey in good time and anchored off. It was a huge bay with good protection from wind and swell. We took the dinghy ashore and found a nice quiet village with supermarket, post office, bars and restaurants.

Next stop was Scedro Island and then we made the jump to the archipelago of the Pakleni Islands which look like a series of joined up epiglottises!

The Pakleni Islands.

We headed for an anchorage but it was so incredibly busy with day trip boats from nearby Hvar. It was noisy and unpleasant and there was a lot of swell from the boats buzzing about like mosquitoes. In the morning, we were getting too close to a boat behind so we decided to leave. However, the wind, once we were outside the protection of this anchorage, had really got up and we battled and bounced into it for a couple of hours. Then we had a fantastic sail northwards with three reefs in the sail.

It being a Sunday, we passed some one hundred and fifty charter yachts heading south on the first day of their week’s charter. We were the only boat going north – it was like dodgems! A lot of the charter boats were over-powered and struggling with too much sail. We were glad to have only a tiny bit of sail out. We arrived on Brac and anchored in a still and calm bay east of Milna, Uvala Lucice (middle bay) It was all peace and quiet. We tied back to the shore and stayed there for a couple of days.

After a further stop in an anchorage (deserted) on the south coast of Solta island we made our way to Ciovo to the north and anchored off a lovely camp site. Then onwards to Trogir. I had booked us onto the town quay there so we could fill up with water and pick up crew.

Despite the searing heat bouncing off the quay and the buildings, we had to crack on with all our jobs and Ian had to go to the dentist for what turned out to be root canal treatment. He is feeling much better now.

We had a little time to wander round old Trogir, which is beautiful before it was time to catch a bus to Split airport and pick up Paula.

Next time, read all about our lovely week bobbing up the coast to the north to reach the fantastic Krka National Park.

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