We bid a fond farewell to Paula in Sibenik, where she hopped on a bus back to the airport. It’s a shame she wouldn’t be able to eat the mussels we’d bought! (On the way to the bus station, we spotted this and the ingenious recycling bins.)
We motored out of the Krka River and the short distance across to Prvic island where we anchored off the harbour wall. (Once more spotting SY Sarasi – we are not stalking them, honest!)
In the evening, we went ashore and walked the short 2km distance to the village of Sepurine to the north and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The island is car-free bliss. There were families chatting and people playing petanque and it felt like there was a real community living here and people who return here year after year for their holidays.
We nearly stayed little longer but decided to leave and head north to Murter and it just as well we did because Alice and Ian had completed their tour of Zagreb and were heading back down south. They were going to meet us in Murter!!!!!
Ian set off in the dinghy to fetch them from the sea front. By then we had completed a few boat jobs. We had wandered along the sea front carrying our copious quantities of dirty laundry and an empty gas bottle. We soon found a petrol station. We walked inside and waited to be attended. Before we could even ask the question about refilling gas bottles the attendant had thrust a piece of paper in Ian’s hand stating the name and phone number we required. (Bude on 0918983227 for those that may be in need of gas!)
What great service.
We rang the number and the man said he would come in 5 minutes and ‘look’ at the bottle. If it was ok, he would fill it.
He came, he saw, and he filled!
Within half an hour we had a new gas bottle for 100k and we were very happy. He said he was very happy because he had the only gas bottle filling station on the island!
We sussed out the laundry near the marina and were delighted that they would wash and dry for 90k per load. It was all so easy!
The only thing we had to suss out was water – also easy. The fuel pontoon would be happy to give us free water when we filled up – sorted! So far, so brilliant!
Next day, we headed to the fuel pontoon south of the marina and filled up with water which I tasted and pronounced delicious; and fuel, which I did not taste! All set now.
We decided to head north towards Zadar. First stop was a lovely anchorage north of Mljane on Pasman Island. We had a peaceful night there despite a noisy bunch of lads on a charter yacht cavorting about beside us. In the morning, we set off to a protected anchorage between the two islands as electric storms were predicted for the night ahead.
We arrived and anchored in clear water to the north side of the bay. We were just about finished putting the boat to bed when we noticed that the yacht that had been anchored beside us the previous night seemed to be approaching the low bridge at the western part of the bay. We all held our breath…. Surely they weren’t thinking of going through?
The air draft under that bridge is only 16.5m and theirs was a boat that was easily as tall as ours. It seemed as if the tide or current was dragging the boat through and there was nothing they could do. The mast struck the bridge and scraped and bounced its way underneath as the current dragged them beneath. Of course, the boat tipped right up and through the binoculars we could see crew scurrying up the now almost vertical deck. Ian and Ian deployed Thunderbird 2 in the hope that they could help. Alice and I sat on board having kittens. How embarrassing! How awful! And, how lucky…in a way….
The two Ian’s were away for ages and we could not see them at all. Finally, they returned and we received minimal information about the crew but they did relay that the rudder was f….d, the mast head was f….d, and, quite probably the rigging was, yes, you guessed it, f…..d!!!
It was a charter yacht, on their second day. No, they probably won’t sail again!
The two Ian’s had manoeuvred them on to a mooring buoy until they could be picked up by the charter company.
With all that drama and the prospect of an inbound electric storm, we needed a game of Bonus Whist or Black Mariah to give us more important things to worry about!
Before we had eaten the flashes began. We had quite a sound and vision show.
We had all our electronics in the oven (I kid you not – Faraday’s Cage is a technique designed to protect your electronics, etc., from a lightning strike) and were just finishing supper when the wind hit and the wine went for a burton….from no knots, to forty knots, in an instant. The boat tipped up and span round but we were fine.
Ian stayed up on anchor watch for a while but things quickly settled down. Next morning, we set off to Preko on Uglijan. We anchored off this small resort and walked around the bay to catch the Jadrolinija passenger ferry to Old Zadar. On the way, we met up with Gary and Shillini on Sarasi.
We had a lovely walk around Old Zadar and found a delightful place to eat. All too soon, it was time to head back to the ferry. It was very warm and we decided we needed ice but not before we had walked all the way back into the village, where upon we were informed that ice could only be purchased from the ferry terminal.
Not to worry, we set off on Linea and Ian went ashore in the dinghy to purchase two huge bags of the stuff!!! He really is the Milk Tray Man!!! We scuttled back to the Prolaz Mali Dzrelac between Pasman and Ugljian and prepared for another stormy night on board.
The storm passed us by, although we saw plenty of lightning again and heard the thunder claps that sounded all too close. The next day, we arrived back in Murter with the wind building from the NE but decided to anchor. There was some strong wind forecast, up to 30 odd knots. We were subject to some fetch but it was fine if bumpy at anchor. We needed to get off. Heading across the bay to the car would have been a mad idea as we would have just got absolutely drenched. So we went with the waves and wind in the opposite direction and jumped ashore to walk around to the car. Ian decided that he ought to stay on board. Ian, Alice and I enjoyed a walk and then a drive around to Betina where we had a delish lunch. After the last thirty six hours of bouncing and rolling at anchor we were all feeling a little wobbly on our land legs, especially when going round the very interesting Betina Boat Building Museum.
We completed a quick driving tour of the islands two roads and then headed back to the boat.
We had bought some sea food and rustled up a huge risotto and hunkered down for yet another blowy and stormy night. By now, we were accustomed to the noise and flashes of light and largely ignored them. The wine and the distraction of Black Mariah helped, of course.
The following day, Alice and Ian disembarked and we set off for a brisk and rolly 40nm downwind sail towards Trogir and the next stage of root canal treatment for Ian. (It was about now that we learned of the truly frightening thunder storms that had so badly affected cruising friends and people in the area of northern Greece which put our stormy nights into perspective.)
Next, read about our wonderful week in Brac with the Clements – Hunts et al.